Eco-Denim: Tunisian initiative turns beach plastic into high-end fashion

Brightly dressed in protective garments, two Tunisian men can be seen diligently hunting for plastic debris on a beach in Kerkennah, an archipelago off Tunisia’s east coast. Their painstaking labour is part of an ecological initiative known as Kerkennah Plastic Free, which is helping to tackle both unemployment and environmental issues. Unbeknown to these workers, their collected rubbish will be transformed into synthetic fibres which will be woven into eco-denim, ultimately intended for clothing under the green fashion brand, Outa.

This innovative recycling eco-denim initiative targets around 7,000 tonnes of plastic refuse that litter Kerkennah’s pristine beaches each year, carried by marine currents from Europe to the Gulf of Gabes. Jean-Paul Pelissier, from the International Centre for Advanced Mediterranean Agronomic Studies (Ciheam), is the man overseeing this environmentally-focused project, backed by the European Union.

Pelissier noted, “We have an exciting environment in terms of nature and tranquillity. It’s ideal for green tourism”. He mentioned the islands are a haven for migratory birds and the surrounding sea is teeming with Neptune grass, an important species of oceanic seagrass. However, “there’s one thing you never see in the pictures — the plastic”.

The collected waste is subsequently delivered to a broker who sends it to a third-party organisation for crushing and compacting. Under a profitable agreement, Seaqual Initiative, a global consortium dedicated to the recycling of marine plastic, purchases the waste materials.

Omar Kcharem, who heads Kerkennah Plast – the plastic compacting and crushing firm collaborating with Seaqual – stated that this association has forged unique opportunities, especially considering that marine plastic is of minimum market value. After processing, these recovered plastic fragments are reshaped into ‘Seaqual Yarn’ in Portugal, utilising one of only four such technologies globally.

In the Tunisian coastal community of Ksar Hellal, the Seaqual Yarn is transformed into denim in the avant-garde facilities of Sitex, a denim manufacturing specialist and supplier to popular brands like Zara, Hugo Boss and Diesel. The resultant eco-couture is crafted under the design supervision of Anis Montacer, founder of Outa, who formed a strategic alliance with Sitex to promote sustainable products reported Manila Times.

Production costs of these novel eco-denim pieces are approximately 20% higher than their non-recycled counterparts. However, Montacer is confident that this initiative will encourage fellow entrepreneurs to invest in eco-responsible product lines. He further enlisted the creative acumen of famous French designer Maud Beneteau, formerly working with Hedi Slimane, to launch Outa’s debut haute couture collection.

The first Outa collection made its runway debut during Tunis Fashion Week in June. Describing the project as a “human challenge”, Beneteau acknowledges the difficulties of working with recycled material, initially designed for sportswear and ready-to-wear lines rather than high fashion. Nevertheless, understanding the complete ecological and socio-economic impact of this project, Beneteau noted, “It’s a whole interesting chain.”